Lulworth Cove - Chapman's Pool, 26/8/11. 13.1 miles

At last a day when we can complete the only section of the path not yet tramped, Its the Friday before bank holiday, and we are forces to take cars to make the day possible - the subsidised phone and book morning bus from Dorchester to Lulworth Cove has been withdrawn with the July timetable. I mean, who would possibly wish to got to Lulworth Cove in July?

More worrying is the weather forecast which threatens heavy rain and chance of  full on storms. But we have to do it, the range walks will be open less after the bank holiday, A goes to Kefalonia next week  and J goes on a blues oddessy to New Orleans and the Mississippi delta at the end on September. Yes, I admit, that latter part is gratuitous showing off.   

And as we leave the car in West Lulworth Village, not only avoiding the paying car park at the cove but also finding a nice back rout onto the path high above the cove, the sky turns black with almost cartoonish swirls of nastiness in the clouds. We reach the clifftop just as the rain sweeps in from the sea. We don the full waterproofs for the first time on this trip - been dead lucky- and resolve to get as far as the fossil forest before reviewing the wisdom of continuing along a very remote stretch.


We really needed more coffee because this stretch is really demanding. We descend to the long closed off beach at Arish Mell. There are lots of men working on this beach. They don't have radioactive suits on which may be some sort of progress here? All the while a large group of squaddies with packs and rifles are passing by in various states of exhaustion. We are told this the run they do every 3 months from Kimmeridge.

Lovely vies all round, inland past the rusty tanks to Lulworth castle, nice hill fort with more picnic tables at Flowers Burrow. We descend the very steep track to have lunch in a picnic table just before the remains of Worbarrow village. The first 4 miles of this trip have taken nearly 3 hours such is the terrain and perhaps our lack of recent hill walking practice.

The section along Gadd Cliff is more comfortable after the initial ascent. Views of the Tyneham Valley and approaching Kimmeridge Bay. The views back to Gadd Cliff are impressive, so to are the wave cut platforms around here. Past the nodding donkey oil well we get some cans of drink ( we have supped all we brought) and a refreshing lolly before walking on past the folly of Clavell Tower. J though it was due to be moved away from the cliff edge, but the notice says this happened in 2005 - time, eh?

Lots of interesting stuff at Kimmeridge, Glass bottomed kayaking on a Tuesday, and an undersea nature trail by snorkel. Must do these things. The next bit undulates calmly, but we are both feeling very tired, and A emphasises regularly that she is not complaining. There is a final 150m ascent over Houndstout which we take slowly. 

All that remains is to complete the link up with the path that runs inland near Chapman's pool and officially that is it - all 92 miles traversed. A British shake of the hands is all that marks the moment for now. The next objective is the Square and Compass, but something strange seems to have happened with the signposting to Worth Matravers. And new camp sights have turned up to accommodate the holidaying grockles. But we safely negotiate the spot where J fell over last month, and are soon at prime table with beer and cider, before making the trip home for pre cooked coq au vin and celebratory bottle of Ridgeview Fitzrovia 2009 - excellent Sussex sparking wine.

Next will be the post mortem to complete this most excellent walking experience....