Lulworth Cove - Chapman's Pool, 26/8/11. 13.1 miles

At last a day when we can complete the only section of the path not yet tramped, Its the Friday before bank holiday, and we are forces to take cars to make the day possible - the subsidised phone and book morning bus from Dorchester to Lulworth Cove has been withdrawn with the July timetable. I mean, who would possibly wish to got to Lulworth Cove in July?

More worrying is the weather forecast which threatens heavy rain and chance of  full on storms. But we have to do it, the range walks will be open less after the bank holiday, A goes to Kefalonia next week  and J goes on a blues oddessy to New Orleans and the Mississippi delta at the end on September. Yes, I admit, that latter part is gratuitous showing off.   

And as we leave the car in West Lulworth Village, not only avoiding the paying car park at the cove but also finding a nice back rout onto the path high above the cove, the sky turns black with almost cartoonish swirls of nastiness in the clouds. We reach the clifftop just as the rain sweeps in from the sea. We don the full waterproofs for the first time on this trip - been dead lucky- and resolve to get as far as the fossil forest before reviewing the wisdom of continuing along a very remote stretch.


We really needed more coffee because this stretch is really demanding. We descend to the long closed off beach at Arish Mell. There are lots of men working on this beach. They don't have radioactive suits on which may be some sort of progress here? All the while a large group of squaddies with packs and rifles are passing by in various states of exhaustion. We are told this the run they do every 3 months from Kimmeridge.

Lovely vies all round, inland past the rusty tanks to Lulworth castle, nice hill fort with more picnic tables at Flowers Burrow. We descend the very steep track to have lunch in a picnic table just before the remains of Worbarrow village. The first 4 miles of this trip have taken nearly 3 hours such is the terrain and perhaps our lack of recent hill walking practice.

The section along Gadd Cliff is more comfortable after the initial ascent. Views of the Tyneham Valley and approaching Kimmeridge Bay. The views back to Gadd Cliff are impressive, so to are the wave cut platforms around here. Past the nodding donkey oil well we get some cans of drink ( we have supped all we brought) and a refreshing lolly before walking on past the folly of Clavell Tower. J though it was due to be moved away from the cliff edge, but the notice says this happened in 2005 - time, eh?

Lots of interesting stuff at Kimmeridge, Glass bottomed kayaking on a Tuesday, and an undersea nature trail by snorkel. Must do these things. The next bit undulates calmly, but we are both feeling very tired, and A emphasises regularly that she is not complaining. There is a final 150m ascent over Houndstout which we take slowly. 

All that remains is to complete the link up with the path that runs inland near Chapman's pool and officially that is it - all 92 miles traversed. A British shake of the hands is all that marks the moment for now. The next objective is the Square and Compass, but something strange seems to have happened with the signposting to Worth Matravers. And new camp sights have turned up to accommodate the holidaying grockles. But we safely negotiate the spot where J fell over last month, and are soon at prime table with beer and cider, before making the trip home for pre cooked coq au vin and celebratory bottle of Ridgeview Fitzrovia 2009 - excellent Sussex sparking wine.

Next will be the post mortem to complete this most excellent walking experience....

Worth Matravers to Studland 12/7/11 -12.4 Miles

It's nearly all over. I refer not to the end of the coast path, but to the fact that following a rather muddy treck around the quarry from Kingston in order to start the days walking in earnest, J slips on the edge of the path and falls dramatically with turned ankle, torn action trousers, and a balletic roll on the ground.

Its with some relief that after a minute it becomes clear that the ankle is not seriously damaged and the project is no longer jeapardised by injury. However no prospect of morning coffee in the Square and Compass, so its down via Seacombe and onto the empty stretch passed the abseilors at dancing ledge ans on th Anvil point. It's a dull morning. Although not the most challenging of sections of the path this 3.5 mile stretch feels quite hard going. Perhaps it's last nights cider, perhaps J's dive, but by the Dolphin lookout post at Durleston we feel very tired. Spirits are not revived by the fact that the Castle, where we had hoped for refreshment, is closed for a major refurbishment. We have to continue to the

advertised cafe which is  round the corner, up the hill and across the car park. Its not a cafe, its a stall and the slow queue (3 people only ahead of us) does not relieve the grumpiness.

Arrival down the hill into Swanage picks us up. There are lunch options. In the end we get a nice sandwich, bottle of good ginger beer and fancy crisps from a pleasant deli. It costs less than the poor sandwich we had back at Abbotsbury. We dine on the small groyne by the clocktower on the Swanage seafront. The place appears to be full of Italian schoolkids on a field trips, and the continuation of the path up Ballard Down is mobbed with them. The sun comes out, and the scenery looks great and we are back in a good rhythm. The view of Poole Harbour is followed by the iconic close up view of Old Harry Rock and his neighbours. Ankles hurting the last part of the formal Jurassic Coast brings us into Studland village by the Bankes Arms and a chance to sample the Purbeck Ales brewed here as well as the lethally strong draft perry , after which A feels no pain. 

We had considered continuing through the nature reserve, dunes and nudist beach to Shall Bay, but decide to quite for the day and return for that, and a chance to eat at the Shell Bay Restaurant. So instead its upstairs on the open topped bus, and a chance to ride the chain link ferry, and nose into the expensive real estate at Sandbanks. We return to Dorchester by train from Bournemouth, ruing the fact that our particular itinerary means that you have to pay full single fare on the trains. A tenner each one way to Dorch is the price of leaving the care behind.

We now have to decide when we are free in the summer schedules, in between music festivals and beach barbecues, to complete the one section of the path and not be shot at....

Around St Adhelms Head. 11/7/11- about 3 miles

We have a plan to spend a weeks holiday in Dorset, but the next section of the path going through the Lulworth ranges is closed, so we plan a jaunt around Purbeck. Bus to Swanage, steam train to Corfe Castle, and a walk across the common to our B and B at Kingston.

That evening we plan a walk around the nearby loop on the coast path, tracking overland and slightly off-piste down to Chapman's Pool. Another beautiful day and the cool, still evening is wonderful for walking. There are 2 fishermen at the boathouse but apart from them we see no other person until the pub.

But first we must climb the sheer ascent up the cliff at Emmmets Hill. 120 meters straight up gets the blood flowing. Rewarded with wonderful views along the coast to the sinking sun. A surprising memorial garden to Marines has nice poppies, and is followed by one of those challenging descents and ascents with steps that takes lots of energy and only seems to advance a couple of hundred yards on the path. Great seat at the corner of St Adhelm's Head where there is a chapel, coast guard station and another memorial, this time to those who developed radar in WW2.

Fine cliff section with wild flowers, affording a final view of distant Portland as we head to the fine atmospheric old quarry/caves at Winspit. We decide not to linger here , although had previously considered the rave potential of this spot, because we are headed to one of the highlights of the area, the Square and Compass at Worth Matravers. Originally we wanted our B and B in the village so we enjoy the full pleasure of an evening at this fine hostelry, but Kingston was the nearest we could find.  

Great to sit supping beer and cider and having the one food option here (pasties - today they were dry and disappointing) as the sun sets, the stars come out and we realise that you don't have to go far to feel fully holiday-ed up.

 

Return to the B and B walking on road rather than path, guided by a waxing moon and a head torch. Evening walking with classic 'real' pub - very fine indeed!

Here is a link to a song that is appropriate, and mentions the Square and Compass

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toyOPe0rfqU

Weymouth to Lulworth Cove. 9/7/11. - 10.9 miles.

Lovely morning. Weymouth beach is deserted at 9am and as the 31 bus deposits us amid the traffic cones of the seafront, we opt for a cheapo bacon sandwich and tea from a wild eyed young man in an empty esplanade cafe. 

The first part of the path here follows the beach. A is new to the Greenhill end of the town and with the view right round to St Alban's Head in the clear morning light it looks at its best today. After Lodmoor the path goes up the road over to Bowleaze, and we stop to view the remains of the small roman temple at Jordan Hill. Its then through the holiday camp, where picnics on the beach are outlawed for some reason, and the world heritage site contains dodgems. The striking art deco of the hotel looks more faded than usual up close. A couple men appear to be working on some kind of paint job. I hope they get it done in time for the Olympics.

After this point the countryside begins and the more customary atmosphere of the coat path kicks in. It very quickly comes to feel remote (save for large groups of helmeted kids abseiling off aparatus at the Osmington Bay activities centre). There is even a nice short stretch of undercliffe before we arrive at the Smugglers Inn for an early morning shandy, which is perfect in the summer morning heat. Good to visit this pub in high summer before it gets too full. There is a marquee making ready for a wedding reception, and the tables have been named after areas of the coastline, Chesil Beach, Durdle Door etc.

The next stretch through Ringstead is very familiar, J's default beach, snorkeling venue and round walk with weekenders. The climb up White Nothe is out first major ascent of the day and comes as ashock. Forget to select low gear and feel a bit knackered half way up. But the cliff views are wonderful and just get better rounding the coastguard cottages and looking east at the chalk of Bats Head. Its a fantastic spot for the packed lunch.

There are 3 sharp ascents and descents after this. Quite challenging but by now we are properly paced, and there are many rewards as this is the start of possibly the most iconic section of the whole Jurassic Coast. The sea views are great, with the chalk stack, the seam of Portland stone rocks off shore and the....well its hard not to sound like an A level geography casualty round here.

Good for wildlife too, with lots of tiny thyme in flower, and some wacky green/gold hopper type creatures who seem to favour wild carrot flowers.

More iconic views as we arrive at Durdle Door. The beach looks very inviting, but suddenly there are crowds of people. Massive litter collection operation. Ethnic diversity with lots of large family

groups enjoying dahl and rice. We observe a very marked tendency for what appears to be middle aged men with young Thai brides, how can we possibly record this on the blog, but really, its like there is a convention! Ice cream helps us over the hill in the crowds towards Lulworth cove, which is looking good as ever. The notorious car park and the large crowds don't really distract from the experience as might have been feared after the peace and near solitude of the previous few miles. Its A's first visit, so we take in Stair Hole, and the main street.

More time here would have been good but there is only one option at 1620. We are the only passengers after an over-refreshed family get off at the top of the hill at Daggers Gate. The subsised route gets us back to Dorchester for the bargain price of £1.30 each.

Ideally we would have liked to pick up the range walks from this point, but the military wont open them for another week. So we need to depart form the sequence we had planned, but we have a alternative for our next planned day, so we can barbeque tonight and attend the Sunday of the Weymouth Seafood festival tomorrow (which turned out to be great)

West Bexington - Weymouth 24/6/11 18.1 miles

..... or maybe 19 miles. A is keen that the extra mile from the bus stop at the top of the hill above West Bexington is counted in today's distance count. This is the longest planned walk of this project, if not the most challenging in terms of terrain.

We have embraced public transport totally today. The double decker view along the new relief road into Weymouth gives a new perspective on a strip of road now becoming familiar. We have about 50 minutes to kill on the Weymouth seafront before catching the scheduled X53 Jurassic Coast bus and find that St Mary's Church is open today (a rare thing, it would seem). So we are able to view the James Thornhill last supper from 1721 that resides here. The most significant painting on the coast path (we would assume). No signs re photography rules. J has camera and goes for a flash free photo. This action elicits a sarcastic remark about permission from a woman with a cup of tea but no other visible authority. We rise above this and can now place this shot on the blog for the world to appreciate.

The X53 is something of a scrum of very excited elderly holidaymakers from around the country. Boarding is slow as the traditional practice of checking where the bus is going by looking at the sign on the front seems to have been abandoned by many of our fellow travellers.

Descending from the bus stop by the uninspiring Bull at Swyre we pass Tamarisk Farm and its beautiful mixed organic vegetable beds and pasture running down to Chesil beach. And at last we are back on the trail at 1230pm. The vegetation along the beach has moved on distinctly from when we left off last month, and its a delightful flat 4 miles along to Abbotsbury. The bright sunshine on the morning has given way to an increasingly dull afternoon with a forecast for possible rain later.

The original idea was to pause for lunch at the colonial tearoom at the entrance to Abbotsbury subtropical gardens (a short diversion), but at the beach car park a shack is open and we take tea and a sandwich to the beach. A pity we did not check the prices. £3.95 for a very ordinary chicken and salad sandwich can only be described as a rip of. Perhaps anything with an Abbotsbury label attracts a mark up. A is outraged.

The next section of the path skirts the village and the swannery before making an unexpected ascent up and along a very attractive ridge. The fleet lagoon is now below us.  There are views and sheep and almost a feel of Derbyshire about this section, and the contrast with walking close beside chesil beach adds to it.

Gradually the path seems to loose contact with the sea behind Chesters Hill and round Wyke Wood before it emerges beside the fleet at Rodden Hive where a well placed seat provides a welcome break for water and an orange. Its supposed to be a good spot for birdlife, but there is little to show today. We skirt the fleet for a couple more miles, involving a good encounter with a stonechat, until arriving at Mooonfleet Manor hotel just after 4pm for a very welcome pot of earl grey. The wacky luxury of this place is a major contrast from the farmland and wildness outside. The guy who serves is quite confused by our project, and seems to delight in telling us that it has started to rain.

But it stays dry though gloomy as we pass Butterstreet Cove and Chickerell Hive Point. The firing range at Tidmoor Point has no red flag so we are not diverted inland. At this point A begins to feel the mileage in her dodgy ankle. Our pace has slowed considerably. Time to grit teeth, gird loins and push the envelope. The scenery varies between some nasty static caravan sites at Littlesea, and some pleasant wooded fleetside pathways. We have to divert around the 'Royal Engineers Bridging Hard' next. With its concrete, steel bridging components and razor wire it is perhaps the ugliest stretch of the coast path so far.

But Portland is now looking near, and we round a bend to see mussel and oyster beds and the comforting site of the Crab House Cafe, where we have previously eaten much fine seafood. Not today however as we take a drink in the Ferrybridge Inn. Looks rundown outside but the bar itself is fine, with binoculars available for the view. Jurassic bitter and shandy is ordered. 

We still have a couple of miles to go, and despite A's limp, we are a little refreshed. The track initially is the old railway route, but at Sandsfoot Castle covered with a mess of scaffolding the path takes in some very upmarket streets before emerging near the Qinetic bomb factory and the new sea defence at Nothe Gardens. Fall into the pub on Brewers Quay for much needed, and slightly celebratory drink. Relax to the sounds of locals telling diving stories. A bit like fishing stories but underwater and with more personal jeopardy.

So we head back on the ten to nine bus, ready only for more beer at home and a chance to check out Glastonbury on the red button.  Feels good to have clocked off this long stretch. A full day, but with more highlights and variety that we anticipated.

Weymouth and the Portland causeway 23/6/11

It's J's birthday. The plan is to go mackerel fishing from Weymouth harbour. It is a Thursday and on arrival at the quayside the sign says that the next trip will be on Saturday. Plan B involves the hour sightseeing trip around Portland harbour. We take the 50p ferry boat, complete with grumpy rowing guy, crossing to the departure point by the pavilion and get the last 2 places on the first full boat our skipper has had in several weeks. On the course of the voyage we look over at the distant bank of chesil beach linking Portland with Ferrybridge and realise that we have not actually planned to cover the causeway section of the coast path. It has to be done this afternoon or will remain a gap in our logical progression.

But first we enjoy the boat trip, commentary and views out here. Better than being in work. The sun shines and upon returning to port we have a mackerel burger in 'Fritz and Chips' - part of the Fearnley-Whittingstall fish fight campaign that has taken off in the best of the town's chippys. A birthday beer in The Boot Inn then out to the Chesil Beach information centre just over Ferrybridge. Its not that great, and they charge for some leaflets that come free from tourist information.

The short walk is great, however. We take in the view atop the bank before crossing the road to enjoy the splendid wild flower display on the causeway. All sorts going on in the harbour, some of it possibly olympic preparation. We both like this rather unique strip of land.

West Bay - West Bexington. 15/5/11. 5.6 Miles

A has a problem with West Bay, so we don't even make it to the end of the new harbour wall but set off up the distinctive red East Cliff passing the golf course until another pretty grim static caravan park at Burton Freshwater. Here the path heads inland a bit towards the first bridge over the River Bride. We decide on the more adventurous approach by attempting to vault the mouth of the stream as it splays out across the shingle. A pause follows while shoes and  socks are removed and dried. J reminisces about a fun Christmas spent with friends in a nearby cottage in Burton Bradstock many years ago.

We muse on the excellence of Billy Bragg's house and its location and hope a group of Guatemalan miners are enjoying a fraternal visit in the west wing. Maybe see him on stage at the Tolpuddle Festival later this year.

The Hive beach cafe has become very well known. Today we arrive at 3.00pm and are told lunch service is finished for the day. Had a distinctly mixed experience at this place. Certainly the food is very good, the local sourcing and intentions are all good too, but previous experience of queues and scrums for a table at peak time have left a scar. J has stopped going here with visitors at weekends. And today ourselves and other punters hard behind us fall foul of what seems a very old fashioned closing time culture in a setting that seems very modern. We do get a substantial carrot cake and coffee and enjoy a seat in the sun.

Along the low cliffs and then down to Cogden beach we pass a caravan park we actually like! Has a faded eccentric charm quite unlike the eyesores we have moaned about so far. And there is a wonderful change in the flora and scenery as we hit this next section. Huge drifts of thrift, lots of wild cabbage and other attractive beach side plants that we will need to look up. Burton Mere is an attractive small swampy lake with exciting bird noises drifting out of the reed and wild iris beds. The path officially passes to the north but we like the beach atmosphere with its rows of Sunday fishermen adding to the atmosphere until the strain of walking on shingle sends us back to the official path and a close encounter with a heard of Fresians.

West Bexington is in view and we return to the car we originally left here earlier. Sadly the Manor Hotel is closed for refurbishment and this is the only source of refreshment in this village. We have not used as much public transport as we would like so far, largely due to time constraints. As we plan the next few sections we resolve to take some whole days and carry details of the bus services - should be possible as we get further east with Dorchester as the hub, its better connected than Ottery.

A month has to pass before we can hit the trail again and withdrawal symptoms are a factor. We do get to the Bridport Food Festival and after Hugh Fearly-Whittingstall does his thing with mackerel, we get talking to the fine fellows of the National Trust Jurassic Coast team, who tell us about the 'rock around the coast' walking tours.

http://www.jurassiccoast.com/270/jurassic-news-36/latest-news-162/rock-around-the-coast-and-take-a-walk-through-time-622.htmltr


They confirm there is no specific walking guide to the route, and this feeds our fantasy of writing a sort of Devon/Dorset Alfred Wainwright guide. Is there demand out there?

Lyme Regis-West Bay 14/05/11 10.1 miles

We set off on yet another sunny early summer day looking forward to the climb which would today include Golden Cap the highest point on the south coast which stands at 191 metres.

From Lyme we walked across Charmouth beach in search of fossils along the way. We did find an ammonite although you will find many superior specimens in the local dinosaur museums.

We were relieved that the landslide which had closed part of the route did not lead us on a lengthy detour. The climb up Golden Cap was quite a challenge but well worth the effort.  The views here are stunning across Lyme Bay , looking forward with Portland clearly in view today. We shared the summit with several other small groups who also chose this spot to have their picnic. We observed signs of the archaeological dig being undertaken by the National Trust that had been sign posted along the way.

After a hearty homemade sandwich we set off again and descend towards Sea Town, a pretty village with a decent pub  called the Anchor Inn. We sit at a table outside and the endorphins are now flowing and we decide despite our original plan, to carry on as far as West Bay.

 We leave the pub and begin the climb of Dog House Hill which is followed by Thorncombe Beacon . This feels like really hard work and requires real stamina. At Eype we pass a campsite on the cliff edge which enjoys the spectacular views across the Bay. We complete this rather challenging part of the coastal path and eventually arrive at West Bay. It is hard to believe that this town is part of an area of outstanding beauty. It has more fish and chip outlets than I have ever seen in one place. The recent architecture is multi story flatlets with smoked glass and truly an eye sore. Having said that it does have a pretty harbour side. It is close by here that you will  find  the Riverside restaurant  which J recommends. It is here we end our walk for the day but not before we walk up the river into Bridport and stop at the George pub for well earned refreshments. Two glasses of wine here has A as merry as all the  locals we met on the number 31 double decker bus appear to be. We return to Lyme Regis and the Harbour Inn, a pleasant pub with ok food service, and J enjoys the fish pie while A goes for the fishcakes. A good way to end what has been a physically challenging but most enjoyable day. We are well into the Dorset  now and will return tomorrow to pick up the path again at West Bay

Beer to Lyme Regis. 23/4/11 - 11 miles

The French Lieutenants woman chose a great area to wander enigmatically - we just love the undercliffe.

Its an amazingly hot April day. By the time of our mid afternoon departure from Beer the beach is packed. Nobody venturing into the sea though, climate change has not gone that far. And this time we have brought a camera. The blog gets illustrated! Sensational.

After the mile or so of cliff path we enter Seaton along the beach from the Seaton Hole end. There are those who feel the whole town could be thus named. Today at least it provides a welcome ice cream. We speculate on what the new building in the low lying end of town by the Axe might turn into. So its with some relief that we head up through the golf course and apporach the undercliffe walk.

We manage to get past the fields of rape seed in full on yellow overkill without sneezing and the nature reserve boudary heralds a transformation into a unique, wild and slendid six miles of woods, ridges and wildflowers with the occaisional sea view. On days like this remote parts of the south coast can feel very mediterreanean.

We are impressed at how nature has reclaimed these landslips from turnip crops in the nineteenth century. The information boards are helpful , and also carry warnings about there being no exit from this path, and how straying from it risks going down a ravine. Sometimes in this country warning signs can appear a bit over the top, but not here. It really is a challenging few miles, with lots of ascents and descents, wooden steps, and very few other punters.

We pause for rest quite regularly, and have lunch on a conveneintly shaped tree (see the intro page to this blog). There is a fabulous natural avenue of wild garlik, and lots of beetles and varied ferns and woodland plants, many of which we fail to identify. As the afternoon gets later, the birdsong takes of. At one of our rests the  wilderness atmosphere is particularly strong. A comments that she can image a T- rex showing up at some point. J has his camera, but the battery gives up in the middle of this great photogenic highlight. A's is charged up however so if a dino appears, we will be ready.
However we see no extinct creatures despite slight dehydration and after 3 hours we arrive into Lyme and take malted refreshment at the Harbourside pub and allow our endorphines to settle after a stretch we were looking forward to, but exceeded expectations.

Sidmouth to Beer 17/4/11 - 8.4 miles.

The best of East Devon’s woodland cliff tops and sea views

We have walked along the beach from Sidmouth to Weston Mouth, however, this is pretty hard going on shingles and we do recommend checking for news of recent rock fall.

On this occasion we cross the iron bridge and climb the footpath which goes past  houses and up to a well earned sit down on a bench where we take in the spectacular views of Ladram  and Start Point just in the far distance. The weather holds and the blue skies make a really beautiful sight.

The path goes from here to Salcombe Regis, a very pretty village with parking in the church yard -  worth a visit. We continue from here on to Western Mouth. This was a relatively early morning walk and the views again make us feel lucky to live here. This beach is known to be favoured by loyal naturists but we are spared this treat for today at least.

On towards Branscombe, we meet a group of women in training for the entire south west coastal path walk they will be doing in a few weeks to raise money for children’s hospices. They are using what looks like very handy walking poles. A considers how to drop a suitable hint about how useful these look in time for her soon to be celebrated birthday.

The walk down into Branscombe takes us through lovely woodland where the Daffodils are currently glorious.  We head for the Fountain Inn the better of the two pubs in the village and sit outside among the grockles and enjoy a pint of locally brewed Branoch.

It’s a lovely woodland trail with glimpses of the sea from here into Beer. We like this stretch particularly after a late evening sunset walk, which developed into a full on moonlit night, sparkling on the sea and everything!

Beer is quiet when we arrive, and despite the great cliff top location of the beer garden, the pub is somewhat sterile.

However we have glimpsed Portland in the distance, Dorset beckons.

Exmouth to Sidmouth. 19 & 20/3/11 - 11.4 miles

High peak and Ladram bay are major highlights, if you are able to ignore the caravan park

The Jurassic coast officially begins at a slightly weird UNESCO obelisk just on Orcombe point. It is possible to shoot off along the sand at low tide here, but we opt for the low cliffs, having resisted the temptation of the Young’s pub back in Exmouth proper. The first stretch requires confronting Sandy Bay caravan park, the first of many and one of the least attractive (there will stiff competition!) You cannot enter the rifle range at Straight Point, but as you climb up to South West Down Beacon the scenery much improves, this is more like it.

The odd flashes of incongruous colour on the left belong to golfers on the East Devon Golf course, but there are some benches amid the gorse and fern offering excellent views towards Budleigh Salterton.

Bit of a diversion into an unremarkable pub at Budleigh, cannot recall the name but there seem few others visible from the path.  Refusing the charms of one of many 1950’s vintage tea rooms we head along the beach, and a few moments in front of the Red Devonian sandstone and Scots pines of Otterton ledge is time well spend.

The routes heads a little inland up the Otter estuary, and here we are being a little creative with the timings, bear blog fan, as this is the closest point to A’s abode in Ottery, and we can nip back for recuperation.

The estuary is lovely with birds, hides, and wildlife, plus a music venue and afternoon teas at Otterton Mill. (with wasps in high summer!)

Across the river we return to cliff tops for a few miles until Ladram Bay comes into view. And what to say about Ladram Bay? It was a beautiful clear spring day with blue sky, green sea and the fabulous red stacks of Ladram Rocks to the right. This is a calendar pin up view. However look to the left and the unsightly expanse of the vast caravan shanty town vexes the spirit. Beyond the clubhouse we take water and decide that this walk , all the way to Studland, will be the grand project for the summer.

With extra enthusiasm we decide to ascend the main summit of High Peak (152m), you can in fact go round this on the path, but we need to build our thigh power. Just as we felt in a good rhythm, a group of eastern European staff from the caravan park stride effortlessly past.

Beyond here there are some great viewpoints. The fact that thick woods come right up to the cliff edge and undercliff here is a great feature of the Devon end of the trail. Also good to have shade in this record breaking hot springtime.

We like Sidmouth. We arrive at Jacobs Ladder, can’t face the queue from the tearooms in Connaught Gardens and end up with Cappuccino in a plastic mug and tuna sandwich on the beach. We aim to return here for the folk festival, first week of August.  And there is Young’s beer after all, in the best pub in town, the Swan.

Portland circuit 12.2.2011 - Distance 12.1 miles.

Ok, you may have spotted we have not started at the beginning. We began with Portland because we were there at the time.

This was a great start to our project as it has many interesting and varied aspects. as well as the infamous and unique atmosphere that only Portland can provide, if a little rocky underfoot at times.

We set off on a grey saturday morning beginning at the Weymouth and Portland sailing academy, site for the 2012 Olympics. We opted to walk anti-clockwise route which would allow us to end at the Cove Inn.

The intial ascent starts at Portland casle with a steep climb through the housing estate. We immediately had great views of the harbour, Chesil beach ,Weymouth Bay and Underhill. The Verne prison remains mostly out of sight on it's cliff top.

We come across local youths in one of the old quarry sites entertaining themselves by setting alight  a wheely bin to keep warm. It feels very much as though we have entered a scene from a Ken Loach docu-drama.

After taking in the high fence of the young offenders institution one of the best wild sections begins at Church Ope cove. This is an attractive spot and J recommends it as a reasonable snorkling spot in warmer weather. For now though we take in the ruins of the ancient church and watch a man with this sketch pad.

The next stretch is a rocky and beautiful route southwards taking in the views of the lighthouse. we passed the first of several cranes  once used to load the stone onto boats

At this point lunchtime was approaching and we  placed bets on whether the cafe at the Bill would be open. A lost the bet and paid  too much for the rather ordinary leek and potato soup. It was a fine location, however.

A quick detour on the limestone pavement to view Pulpit Rock at close quaters. Nobody 'tombstoning' today. The walk resumes past some 'ministry of attack' property and along the increasingly high cliffs of the West Wears. Scenery gets better as we approach the scupture park, and divert to take in the rather good 'spirit of Portland' sculpture. Then its down the hill, looking at the land sculpure showing the different grades of Portland Stone, past the closed but interesting looking Quiddles Cafe and into the Cove for a well earned pint.(or in A's case, tia maria and coffee). We like this pub, nice location, nice pictures of shipwrecks, seems busy at all times these days.

Its cold as we return to the car at the sailing academy, was it at this point we hit on the momumental decision to do the whole darn Jurassic Path?  (No.... A)

Introducing Jerry and Angela's blog

In celebration of our newly forged cross county romantic links, it seemed fitting to undertake a walk of some of the greatest scenery around our respective home towns. We live in Dorchester in the fine county of Dorset, and Ottery St Mary in glorious Devon.

For no good reason we have decided to start in Devon and head east through the UNESCO world heritage site over the coming weeks and months, sampling scenery, wildlife, public transport, and what decent food and drink might be available to sustain us in our efforts.