West Bexington - Weymouth 24/6/11 18.1 miles

..... or maybe 19 miles. A is keen that the extra mile from the bus stop at the top of the hill above West Bexington is counted in today's distance count. This is the longest planned walk of this project, if not the most challenging in terms of terrain.

We have embraced public transport totally today. The double decker view along the new relief road into Weymouth gives a new perspective on a strip of road now becoming familiar. We have about 50 minutes to kill on the Weymouth seafront before catching the scheduled X53 Jurassic Coast bus and find that St Mary's Church is open today (a rare thing, it would seem). So we are able to view the James Thornhill last supper from 1721 that resides here. The most significant painting on the coast path (we would assume). No signs re photography rules. J has camera and goes for a flash free photo. This action elicits a sarcastic remark about permission from a woman with a cup of tea but no other visible authority. We rise above this and can now place this shot on the blog for the world to appreciate.

The X53 is something of a scrum of very excited elderly holidaymakers from around the country. Boarding is slow as the traditional practice of checking where the bus is going by looking at the sign on the front seems to have been abandoned by many of our fellow travellers.

Descending from the bus stop by the uninspiring Bull at Swyre we pass Tamarisk Farm and its beautiful mixed organic vegetable beds and pasture running down to Chesil beach. And at last we are back on the trail at 1230pm. The vegetation along the beach has moved on distinctly from when we left off last month, and its a delightful flat 4 miles along to Abbotsbury. The bright sunshine on the morning has given way to an increasingly dull afternoon with a forecast for possible rain later.

The original idea was to pause for lunch at the colonial tearoom at the entrance to Abbotsbury subtropical gardens (a short diversion), but at the beach car park a shack is open and we take tea and a sandwich to the beach. A pity we did not check the prices. £3.95 for a very ordinary chicken and salad sandwich can only be described as a rip of. Perhaps anything with an Abbotsbury label attracts a mark up. A is outraged.

The next section of the path skirts the village and the swannery before making an unexpected ascent up and along a very attractive ridge. The fleet lagoon is now below us.  There are views and sheep and almost a feel of Derbyshire about this section, and the contrast with walking close beside chesil beach adds to it.

Gradually the path seems to loose contact with the sea behind Chesters Hill and round Wyke Wood before it emerges beside the fleet at Rodden Hive where a well placed seat provides a welcome break for water and an orange. Its supposed to be a good spot for birdlife, but there is little to show today. We skirt the fleet for a couple more miles, involving a good encounter with a stonechat, until arriving at Mooonfleet Manor hotel just after 4pm for a very welcome pot of earl grey. The wacky luxury of this place is a major contrast from the farmland and wildness outside. The guy who serves is quite confused by our project, and seems to delight in telling us that it has started to rain.

But it stays dry though gloomy as we pass Butterstreet Cove and Chickerell Hive Point. The firing range at Tidmoor Point has no red flag so we are not diverted inland. At this point A begins to feel the mileage in her dodgy ankle. Our pace has slowed considerably. Time to grit teeth, gird loins and push the envelope. The scenery varies between some nasty static caravan sites at Littlesea, and some pleasant wooded fleetside pathways. We have to divert around the 'Royal Engineers Bridging Hard' next. With its concrete, steel bridging components and razor wire it is perhaps the ugliest stretch of the coast path so far.

But Portland is now looking near, and we round a bend to see mussel and oyster beds and the comforting site of the Crab House Cafe, where we have previously eaten much fine seafood. Not today however as we take a drink in the Ferrybridge Inn. Looks rundown outside but the bar itself is fine, with binoculars available for the view. Jurassic bitter and shandy is ordered. 

We still have a couple of miles to go, and despite A's limp, we are a little refreshed. The track initially is the old railway route, but at Sandsfoot Castle covered with a mess of scaffolding the path takes in some very upmarket streets before emerging near the Qinetic bomb factory and the new sea defence at Nothe Gardens. Fall into the pub on Brewers Quay for much needed, and slightly celebratory drink. Relax to the sounds of locals telling diving stories. A bit like fishing stories but underwater and with more personal jeopardy.

So we head back on the ten to nine bus, ready only for more beer at home and a chance to check out Glastonbury on the red button.  Feels good to have clocked off this long stretch. A full day, but with more highlights and variety that we anticipated.